SAILING ACROSS THE ATLANTIC Off the Beaten Path – 8 LESSONS LEARNED, a 1,690 nautical mile journey across the Atlantic Ocean from Mindelo, Sao Vicente, Cape ...
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a few years ago when you first told me
that we should cross an ocean in a
sailboat I thought it was crazy I
thought it was more likely that I would
walk on the moon one day and now that
we've done it I know it's crazy I would
say crossing an ocean is always a
highlight for every sailor and no matter
how much you plan and prepare for it,
it's always about facing the unexpected
in this episode we take you on a 1690
nautical mile journey across the
Atlantic Ocean from Mindelo, Sao Vicente,
Cape Verde, Africa to Cabedelo, Brazil
South America our original plan was to
take the easy
milk run route crossing the Atlantic
with the trade winds and heading due
west to the Caribbean. But that's not
what we did. we left the popular
tradewind route and went off the beaten
path. This gave us extra challenges of
sailing in the doldrums, facing brutal
heat and daily thunderstorms
No sailing passage is perfect. We did a
lot of things right but we also learned
some valuable lessons along the way.
Passage planning is always very
important but it becomes more essential
the longer the passage. The longer the
passage the more vulnerable you are to
weather changes or unexpected events. A
weather forecast beyond five days is an
illusion and most likely you will not be
able to escape approaching weather
systems anyway so good weather routing
is the key to long passages. In our case
the main question was where to cross the
the doldrums so the ITCZ
which is their official name are
characterized by brutal heat low winds
and furious thunderstorms. All this
doesn't sound too inviting so you will
try to cross them as fast you can
Here's the next challenge, the shape
of the prevailing winds on the other
side if you cross them too far east you
risk to be in them very long if you
cross them too far west you might see
strong headwinds on the other side we
decided to head Southwest first until we
reached 29 degrees west then headed due south
across the equator at 29 or 30 degrees
west and then continued south west to
Brazil. All this played out very well for
us we had a few days of little wind but
always had enough to keep moving
Also our navigation equipment worked out
really well we have a Raymarine system
worked flawless and we download GRIB data
using our reading
go predict went offshore from time to
time we took a noon siding with a
sextant to train our celestial
navigation skills. I think the
strategy worked out very well and we
would do it the same way again. Our
second noon shot of the Sun and did the
math and we should be at 13 degrees six
minutes north and 2800 degrees west GPSS
we are 90 degrees north and 2775 west
this is just a difference of seven miles
not too bad something yesterday was 30 something miles hey yeah
getting there
we also learned that we need to make
some upgrades to our natural power
resources. Maybe apart from space there is no place you depend more on yourself
than in the middle of an ocean
self-sufficiency is key. When it comes to
energy and spares as far as tools
and spares are concerned we never felt
that we were over or under equipped
energy however always was a scarce
resource. Our wind generator made some
contribution but the performance curve
was let's say maybe a little optimistic
also in the trade winds when you have
the wind from behind on the long
downwind passage it doesn't produce a
lot of energy either. Also the solar
panels did not meet our expectations the
position turned out to be covered by the
shade of the sails most the time so we had to
operate the our gasoline
generator almost every day to charge our
batteries so in Brazil we will add at
least 500 on solar power system to
become self-sufficient. okay so it's Day 4 Monday
February 11 and the first day we have a
little wind a little means we have
three bf straight downwind we're
actually making four plus knots
which is a lot compared to the one and a
half to two and a half knots that we
made the last couple of days so I hope
we are making some time that we lost
some last days yeah so we've got the mizzen sail up, the wind
generator is moving finally it was not
for a while
there was literally no wind and what else
we got going on with the sails out here
you know we have a wing a wing
configuration with a Genoa on the
starboard side and the mainsail on the
port side as you can see we don't have a
lot of swell so we don't have a lot of
movement we don't meet boom out the Genoa
we also don't need cutter sail to help us soften the blows. Its a good configuration downwind.
our next waypoint straight downwind so
yeah that's all we go okay good
after four days of barely moving, going
about one and a half to two have knots
we finally have wind and we are now
flying at a good five and a half sometimes six
and half knots and it's really fun
finally making some ground. Day 5
I brought 12 books on board but I don't
think I was properly prepared for just
how much downtime we would have
so it's been a pretty pleasant passage for
me I like the smooth waters I did have
two very brief bouts of seasickness but
I've refused to take the seasick
medicine and you know I've been fine
so we've mostly just been relaxing I am
on my second book almost finished with
my second book so I'm hoping I have
enough books on board to keep me
entertained out here but it's nice
I like it
the sun's shining bright today and the
dogs seem to be enjoying it and it's
nice so far it's taking us a little
longer than we thought
but that's okay I've read every book
that I brought on board so now the only
book left me to read is the Sailing
maintenance manual so lesson learned
next time we have a passage like this I
bring a few more books. Right, Cap'n Jack?
one thing we did right was with our
provisioning we brought along almost 600
liters of water and only used about half
of that our fresh vegetables lasted
about a week and we managed to have
fresh fruit all the way to the end we
just need to learn a few more recipes
crossing the equator was a huge
milestone
Goodbye North, hello South! We are officially across the Equator!
we did it right
we asked Neptune for safe passage passed
our exam took our vows and made our
sacrifices. Even the Sea Dogs
participated in the ceremony. Make your
sacrifice. That was really a
true sacrifice for them Sea Dogs
do your vow to protect your ship your
crew and your captain on all seven seas
then if yes eat this treat. if no, throw
this treat overboard
we were christened with equatorial
waters and celebrated this rite of
passage for all sailors. The first
ringing of the ship's Bell in the
southern hemisphere the blazing heat
became our biggest challenge on this
passage
it's so HOT! We struggle to find any
relief from the heat. I just can't tell you what I would give for one cube of ice!
Just one cube of ice. I would be so happy. But it's really beautiful and we are getting close
It's been 187 days since we departed from Stralsund. We are now across the Atlantic. We see land. After 15 days at sea, HELLO BRAZIL!
sometimes your worst night at sea is the
night you spend at Anchorage when we
arrived at the Anchorage in Noronha,
I didn't like it in reality it was much
less protected than you might think from
the charts. It was completely opened to
the swell and the better protected area
was all taken by local boats. Also taking
into account the drastic wind shift
during the frequent thunderstorms there
was only partial protection from the
winds - it took hours until finally the
anchor would hold and stop dragging however the pounding of the high swells forced
us to go on anchor watch all night long.
After a brutal night at Anchorage we
weighed our options of whether to stay
another night or get back to sea where
we could feel more safe. But first we
took a little time to enjoy the
beautiful weather and scenery of this
gorgeous remote island
as we wanted to stay another day to
explore the island I explored other
Anchorage's with our dinghy but when I
checked the swell forecast I decided to
leave before nightfall a swell forecast
predicted two and a half to three meters
swell for the next night. In the meantime
the anchor was wedged into the rock so
well we couldn't break free not manually
not using the electrical windlass not
using the engine so eventually I had to
take the decision to cut the anchor and
leave it behind which made the already
expensive Anchorage in Noronha even more
expensive
tropical squalls can happen at any time
on an ocean crossing no matter how good
the weather forecast and how little the
likelihood of storms in your
your season preparing for an ocean
crossing also means preparing for storms
as one of my good sailor friends used to
say at one point Neptune will get you
with your pants down however here we are
talking more about squalls and tropical
thunderstorms than major depressions
because the ITCZ is notorious for
low winds few thunderstorms that can
last anything from two hours to an
entire night they come with rain so much
you can't tell where the ocean surface
begins and wind speeds that easily
exceed 50 knots while during the day
you can see them coming and get prepared, at night hell breaks loose faster than you
can spell your first name
so at nightfall we reduced our sail area
which is pity at the low winds loosing
some more speed but necessary to not
jeopardize the boat this turned out to
be good strategy for us
we just saw land and we're about to be
in Brazil - mainland Brazil - so we have
been and sea, this is our 20th day at sea
it's been 19 like full around-the-clock
days but this is the 20th actual day at sea
and this is the whole of our trash we
did a really great job with our trash
tasks so we use these huge 8 litre
bottles of water and we refilled other
bottles the smaller bottles from this
water and we stuffed all our trash in
there we and so we feel two of these
this one's really full it's really
packed just to the brim but it's
amazing how much trash we got in
these bottles and then we did have one
big trash bag and it's got mostly cans
and bottles but also our waste
paper from our diaper Genie which also
was a lifesaver because all of our waste
paper went in there and there was no
smell it was all protected and we just
empty it out in here and then this is
one small bag
that just has mostly crushed up
soda and water bottles we
tried to smash as much as we could and I
also have all our cans and
glass and plastic bottles
that's trash
for two and a half weeks almost three
weeks of trash so I think we did
pretty well but as soon as we get to
shore we'll be happy to get this off the
boat
We are not the first sailors to ever cross an ocean and we certainly won't be the last but to me
this experience was truly special and I
feel like we really accomplished
something after the crossing is
before the crossing so we were working
on the next challenge